Words & Photographs by Daisy Wingate-Saul
I slip into the warm embrace of the shallows, clumsily struggling with my mask and flippers like a fish out of water. Phoneless for the first time in what feels like months, I follow my snorkelling guide through a cleft in the reef, taking care to avoid disturbing the fragile coral, whilst not inhaling the salty water gurgling in the bottom of my snorkel.
Just as I calm my breath and settle into my new surroundings, the reef abruptly falls away and I float over the edge of the abyss, my body suspended, weightless. Tropical fish dart in and out of coral caves while sleek black-tipped sharks glide silently past me, dappled sunlight dancing on their cigar-shaped forms. This underwater paradise is a world apart from the turbid British coastline I am used to.
Arriving at the island resort of Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru by speedboat feels like stepping into a scene from a Bond film. The beach villas - each with their own pool, nestled amongst swaying palms and encircled by coraline sand - offer a back-to-nature sanctuary within the North Malé Atoll. From Asian-inspired spa treatments to the Japanese-themed sustainable restaurant Madi Hiyaa, it’s easy to settle into the luxurious rhythm of island life. But it is on the reef, cascading into the depths of the Indian Ocean, that I truly relax.
“So, what do you think coral is?" asks Henry, our resident marine biologist, as my partner and I take a break on land from sea exploration. "Um, a crustacean?" I offer tentatively. Henry chuckles politely before enlightening us. "Actually, corals are formed by tiny slow-growing organisms called polyps that eat plankton and build protective calcium carbonate skeletons over time, creating these vast, colourful structures that support the diverse underwater ecosystem”. Coral reefs play a vital role in safeguarding the planet by protecting and supporting coastal areas, livelihoods, and diverse marine species - which is why coral is often called the forests of our oceans.”
These words resonate with me, reminding me of the practice of 'forest bathing,' (or shinrin-yoku in Japanese), which promotes immersion in nature to boost physical and mental wellbeing. I’ve experienced the mindfulness and relaxation that comes with forest bathing many times before (I seek out green spaces when my mind gets busy), yet finding a similar calm in a complex underwater world was completely new to me.
Sadly though, rising sea temperatures and other environmental factors pose significant threats to coral reefs. This is vividly evident in phenomena such as ‘coral bleaching,’ where stressed corals expel their vibrant algae, turning healthy reefs into white graveyards. Consequently, once-thriving ecosystems, even in remote places like the Maldives, are now experiencing rapid decline.
Since the establishment of its groundbreaking marine lab in 2004 though, Banyan Tree's marine team has led the charge in safeguarding and restoring the delicate marine ecosystem surrounding its properties. Through collaboration with visiting scientists, involvement of the wider community and education of tourists, the resort's conservation efforts extend well beyond its sandy perimeters.
The citizen science program at Banyan Tree offers guests the unique opportunity to participate in guided snorkelling and diving sessions, where they can witness the beauty of coral reef nurseries, actively engage in coral planting and restoration efforts, and contribute to valuable data collection initiatives. On terra firma, guests can attend informative marine talks, gaining a deeper understanding of the crucial role these reefs play in safeguarding our planet's biodiversity.
I join a reef cleanup on Banyan Tree's sister island, Dhawa Ihuru. Setting off on a snorkelling expedition along the island's remarkable reef, we meticulously survey it for coral-eating 'crown-of-thorns' starfish, each of which has the ability to devastate up to ten square metres of coral bed annually by releasing digestive enzymes, effectively transforming vibrant reefs into coral soup. With their natural predators like the giant triton now extinct in the Maldives due to shell hunting, the responsibility to reduce them falls upon us. Armed with a floating bucket and a hooked stick, our task entails severing them from the coral and ceremoniously burying them in the sand.
With each slow breath taken beneath the surface and the sun's warmth on my back, tension melts from my salty body. In a final underwater dance, buoyed by newfound confidence in my mermaid-like abilities, I dive down towards a cave in the reef's edge. Inside lies a nurse shark resting in the shadows and in its quiet presence, I can think of nothing but the creature before me. It’s the ultimate escape from the noice and bombardment of everyday life. I emerge rejuvenated and fresh, the sensation akin to the clarity found after a soul-stirring stroll through an ancient woodland.
A stay at Banyan Tree extends beyond a luxurious moment in paradise; it presents an invaluable opportunity to delve into the mysteries of our underwater forests. Who can say what wonders lie beyond the rocky shores, waiting to be discovered upon my return home?
To learn more about the resort, or book a stay, click here.
