Words by Greta Rybus & Surbhi Mittal - Photographs by Greta Rybus
An extract from the India magazine.
India isn’t known as the ideal setting for a road trip - many assume it’s more traffic bedlam than scenic drives - but I discovered otherwise when embarking on a journey from Bangalore to Mysore with Kamalan, a cultural agency that curates immersive journeys for travellers. On this road trip, one filled with lush paddy fields and greenery, I was to set to explore an ancient culture rich in architectural diversity and artistic pursuits.
Our route took us through the heart of Karnataka in southwest India, where many of its 61 million residents speak a regional language called Kannada. Southern India, in general, is known to have a more relaxed atmosphere, with the same refined gentleness and appreciation for beauty that typifies most of the country.
We began in Bangalore with an early morning visit to the flower markets, where blossoms and garlands overflowed from baskets, before departing for Mysore, hailed as the country’s second most beautiful city. Our journey was broken at the Gumbaz, Tipu Sultan’s mausoleum, where we heard the call to prayer from a mosque adjacent to the graves of royalty. Down the road, we watched the sunset at the confluence of two rivers, while women and their husbands fished together in round-bottom boats and the devout preformed sacred rites waist-deep in the water.
I was in India at the beginning of their hottest seasons, when international tourists depart and Indians take the time to explore their country. Arriving in Mysore, we joined the 12,000 visitors who come to admire Amba Vilas Palace daily, soaking up the decadence and local history. Despite the heat and crowds, we found moments of sweetness and stillness.
My Kamalan guide explained that it was vital I take advantage of the region’s treats, so we stopped to buy sweets made of caramelised ghee, called Mysore pak, and enjoy dishes cooked with coconut milk and fresh spices, followed by sugary and salty lime sodas. We woke early one morning to view the sunrise over the Chamundi Hills and observe the Brahmin priests prepare to wash temples. We met labourers and artisans at woodworking shops and silkworm factories, and talked to farmers, shepherds and priests. Back in the car we listened to the distinct melodies of Carnatic music, admiring how the scores of Southern India blend so wonderfully with the sound of car horns.
The KR Flower Market in the heart of Bangalore begins before sunrise and is a hub for local flower sellers who disperse throughout the city, vending strands of jasmine for women’s hair, garlands of colourful blooms for the front of taxis or auto-rickshaws, or arrangements for temples and homes.
The confluence of the Lokapavani and Cauvery Rivers is considered holy, a sacred place to carry out ancienta rituals. These rivers are also the source of water for the Karnataka region and some people still use small, handmade coracle boats here for net fishing.
The Devaraja Market in Mysore dates backs to 1890 during the days of the maharajas. The market is known for its rich history and wide array of goods - from cones of coloured kumkum powders to fresh vegetables, fruits and spices.
The stunningly intricate Amba Vilas Palace was built in 1912 after the previous palace, constructed in thea 16th century, burned down. Admired for its blending of European and Indo-Saracenic architectural styles, it is India’s second most frequented site, behind the Taj Mahal.
Mandi Mohalla is a Muslim neighbourhood in the heart of Mysore and is considered to be one of the city’si oldest districts. It has everything from pet shops to tea houses, butchers to electronic stores. One shop in particular uses vintage machinery to fix engines and other car parts.
Just after sunrise in the Chamundi Hills above Mysore, a priest adorns a large idol of Nandi, a mystical bull who was the gatekeeper and guardian for Shiva. In Hindu mythology, Shiva was often meditating, so it was best to ask Nandi for blessings from this revered deity.
At Archana Silk Farm in the village of Bannur, about 20 kilometres outside Mysore, women work to sort the male and female silk moths so that the latter can lay eggs. It takes three hours for the moths to lay their eggs on incubation paper, which then take about 45 days to become a cocoon.
Tipu Sultan originally brought silk to Mysore from China and today the city is renowned for its high quality silks - so much so that the fabric’s production is controlled by the government.
A rice farmer harvests his field on the outskirts of Mysore. The primary grain of South India is rice, while in the North wheat is more common.
